Costuming in Rokugan

By Kim Hosmer

The Basics of Dress in Rokugan

In the Emerald Empire, what you wear and how you act has a lasting impact on how people will forever remember you. Is your obi badly tied? Are you gauche enough to show the bottoms of your feet to those of higher rank? Benten forbid you are actually wearing your kimono crossed the wrong way in front. Sometimes the Fortunes think if you are dressed for your own funeral, they might as well oblige you. In any case you’ll be buried at court, so it is better to know how to behave, and how to properly attire your samurai.

For formal occasions, especially Winter Court, most samurai will wear what is traditional. To start, an under-kimono called a nagajuban and tabi socks are put on. The nagajuban is worn crossing the left flap over the right. This is then tied closed with a datejime (a stiff belt that helps prevent the obi from getting wrinkled) for women, and men use a small sash called a koshihimo. The kimono goes on next, still using the principle of left over right. The front bottom edge of the kimono should touch the feet. It is acceptable to fold the kimono over a koshihimo to make sure the length is correct and the kimono doesn’t drag on the floor or trip the wearer. Then the front is smoothed out and flattened against the body. The folds of the kimono should now hide the koshihimo. A datejime is tied around the kimono to secure it, and give a flatter surface for the obi for women. Men can just use their thinner obi to tie their kimono closed. The extra length of kimono that was smoothed down should now show as a neat horizontal fold below the obi or, if there wasn't that much surplus, not show at all. Women tie an obita (a flat board attached to a sash) on so that their obi will remain unwrinkled and flat in front and tie their obi on top of this. An obiage (scarf) is then tied around the waist and tucked in to top of the obi so that some of it peeks out. The obijime (cord) is then tied around the center of the obi.

There are two types of obi that women use, the fukuro-obi and the nagoya-obi. Fukuro-obis have a design only on one side of the material and the nagoya-obi is narrower in the middle to make them easier to tie around the body. In either case the average obi can be up to twelve inches wide and six feet long. The most popular bow used by Rokugani women is the taiko-musubi, or "drum bow." It is tied in back and puffs out like a pillow. The complexity of the bow attests to the creativity and artistic nature of the woman wearing it. Over time, tying an obi into different shapes and knots became popular. Now it is a necessary skill for any accomplished female courtier.          Both men and women will use a netsuke (small carved bead) and ojime (sliding bead) on their obijime. Netsuke beads are carved into fanciful designs and range from erotic to religious in form. They can be made out of any material, but are usually shaped from bone, wood, or a precious stone. Some netsuke are even passed down as heirlooms, from parent to child. Objects such as koku, inros (small boxes that hold seals and medicine), and kinchaku (bag) can be strung on the obijime and firmly secured using the netsuke and ojime. Inros are elaborately designed, and varieties of jade, ivory, or a simple black lacquered wood with mother of pearl inlays.

Men wear a thinner obi, with plain designs and a simple box knot as well as an obijime. When they are wearing hakama (a seven-pleated skirt sometimes divided in the center as pants), they need not wear an obi at all. Wearing hakama is also a symbol that they follow the tenets of bushido, as the seven pleats represent the seven virtues. For formal occasions, men wear a hakama and haori. Haoris will normally have the mon of the samurai’s clan on one shoulder and the mon of their family on the other. Naga-bakama (split hakama with overlong material in the leg meant to trail behind) and a kataginu (a sleeveless, wing-shouldered vest) can be worn in court. A naga-bakama is a sign of high rank and wealth, and only the upper echelons of Rokugani society wear them. It is said that past Emperors required their subjects to wear this garment in court to make assassination attempts more difficult as the pants make quick movements nearly impossible.

The sleeves of a kimono are a good way to tell the age and marital station of a woman. Typically men do not have long cumbersome sleeves, and there is very little variation in length. A young unmarried girl will often have sleeves that nearly reach the floor. As a woman matures the sleeves get shorter, and more boxlike. Female bushi will normally forego the more frivolous styles and opt for practicality, and they will normally wear hakama as well. To complete their outfit, women wear an uchikake, which is a formal robe that trails behind, and is unbelted. Rokugani only wear pure white kimonos at funerals, and brides wear them when getting married. To wear this at any other time is considered bad luck.

The most important part of a woman’s beauty care is maintaining a shining head of hair. Kanzashi (hair ornaments) are then used to style their hair. Married women will wear their hair in smooth and neatly coiffed up dos, usually focusing on volume around the crown of the head. Maidens wear their hair down or in a foxtail, with combs ornamenting, and keeping the hair back from the face. A white foundation of rice flour is applied to the face and various body parts to give a pale shade that is considered elegant. Lips are then painted with rouge or the juice of the beni flower. Some women also redden their cheeks, but a fair complexion is more fashionable.

Before the reign of Toturi the First, cosmetics were commonly used by both genders. From his time spent in the monastery, Toturi learned to scorn excessive ornamentation and frivolous attire. As the Emperor himself preferred simple, utilitarian clothing and shunned the use of makeup, many male courtiers emulated his style to gain favor. Even with the Emperor’s passing, it is rare to see men wearing cosmetics, beyond Scorpions using them as masks.

While they do not wear cosmetics, men do wear hats called eboshi. Those possessing rank in court wear tate eboshi to signify this status. It stands tall, with an indentation in the front to help it sit up straight. There are many variations on the style of the hat, but it retains the tall cylindrical shape, rounded at the top. The ori eboshi is a flattened and folded back variation of this hat and ties onto the head under the chin. The most common color for hats is black with a pattern that depends on family and clan. The finishes on eboshi vary from matte for young men, and a high gloss lacquer for older samurai.

Both genders wear zori sandals indoors. It is important to not walk around barefoot, as it is considered an insult to let someone of higher rank see the soles of your feet. Geta are only worn outdoors, and left outside when entering an abode. It is customary to also tuck a sensu into the obi as it serves many purposes. Sensu are an important part in the tea ceremony, as well as communication, especially for purposes of courtship.

Only bushi should carry a katana, as it is a calling card that you have studied kenjutsu. One can tell how great a person’s station is (or how highly they think of themselves) by how they tuck their katana into their obi. If it is thrust into the obi in almost horizontal fashion, they are usually of very high rank, as they are indicating that they need more space. When kneeling to speak with someone of higher rank, it is customary to take off the katana and put it edge in on the right side. Placing the katana on the left for ease of draw is a deliberate insult, as it indicates distrust of the person. Touching someone who is not your spouse in public is also a grave insult.

Not all samurai are required to know the intricacies of dress and behavior. This does not mean it is acceptable for them to bring shame on their family and clan’s name by committing some huge social gaffe. Court can be a dangerous place for the uninitiated, and the unwary samurai can find himself dishonored, and a wave man simply because he had the effrontery to blow his nose in front of the wrong person.

The Practical Guide to Rokugan Live-Action Costumes

One of the largest challenges in LARP is finding an appropriate costume, and Rokugan Live-Action is no different. Many of the kimonos available are made for sizes that the average person will not conform to, especially Western men. When it is impossible to dress traditionally and garb your character in vintage kimonos and obis, there are some easy ways to bypass this obstacle. The easiest way and cheapest way is to purchase a non-terrycloth robe that goes down to your ankles. Cut off the belt loops and take a large winter scarf and wrap it around your waist trying to make a square knot at the front. You may also wish to buy an actual obi, as they are easy to find online. While a vintage kimono is a more problematical fit, most obis will fit just about anyone.

There are also several seamstresses that can custom make a kimono for a person of any shape and size. This is the best option for those who wish to have an impressive costume but lack the skills to make one. A simple search on the Internet will turn up over a dozen people capable of making a costume to your specifications. Custom-made kimonos are a wonderful option for those who wish to garb themselves in the colors of a specific clan.

The last option is making the costume on your own. Fabrics made of silk or satin that are one solid color or a neutral pattern are recommended and can be found in just about any fabric, craft, or hobby store. For those who know how to follow a pattern these can also be found in the Pattern section of these stores. Typically they will be viewed as Halloween or Crafts when looking through a pattern book. For those who have trouble following a pattern we are including brief instructions on how to make a kimono. This should be easy to follow for someone who knows the basics of sewing.

Tabi are easily made from white socks that have been cut and sewn so that the big toe is separated from the other toes. Simple sandals complete the look.

Sewing a Kimono and Obi

First purchase 6 yards of fabric. If need be you can purchase it in lengths of 4 yards, and then one length that is 2 yards. Measure out and cut off 4 yards of the fabric. Fold this lengthwise, with the pattern on the inside so you are looking at the back of the cloth. You should now be looking at 4 yards of cloth that is half its original width. Next fold this in half width wise so that the length measured would come to 2 yards. Lay down next to the cloth so that the top folded part is at your shoulder. Take a permanent marker and make a line on the cloth that is equal to your waist. Now follow draw the same shape on the top layer on the lengthwise fold. Now cut this out and then on this top layer of cloth also follow the fold down cutting it open. Unfold the cloth completely. Fold it in half with the pattern on the inside. About a foot down on either side start sewing the kimono closed.

Now we will start on the collar. Take the 2 yards of cloth and fold it in half lengthwise. About 5 inches from the unfolded edge cut off the cloth in a straight line. Fold each of these strips of cloth in half lengthwise, pattern inward and sew a straight line until you reach the end. Turn it inside out so the pattern now shows again and start sewing the collar on to the kimono. You will start by having one 2-yard piece star in the middle of wear the collar would be at the top.

The sleeves are a little more complicated to attach. Take that 2 yard piece of cloth and cut it into two equal lengths. Then fold this in half and sew along the edge. Turn the sleeve pattern side out. Attach it to the kimono by tucking it in to the kimono and attaching it to the opening. Repeat on the other side. You should now have a finished kimono.

You will now want to hem the bottom of the kimono so that no spare threads drag about or catch on anything. You may also want to hem the ends of the sleeves. In order to make an obi you can purchase another 6 yards of cloth and this should be of another pattern or color. Fold it in half lengthwise with the pattern on the inside and sew along the ends. Then turn it right side in and simply fold it in half and wrap it around your waist as neatly as possible. Women may wish to make a neat bow at the back, while men should again attempt a squared knot at the front.